Check oil volumes from SRAM for your new damper and add/remove oil as necessary. Then pull it out of the upper tube and let remaining oil drip off back into the tube. Alternatively, you can use a big adjustable wrench and leave the banjo on and just spin it around. Pull off the banjo and then use a 24 mm socket to unscrew the damper. Use a very small flat screwdriver to pry the end up and then follow it around until it's fully removed. You just have to remove the banjo by removing the very thin helical retaining ring (like a thin keyring) that holds the banjo on. If you have to swap out the damper, you can probably do this yourself as its pretty simple. This is more expensive though as you'll have this extra damper sitting around. Or, you can just buy the compression damper itself from a SRAM dealer and swap it out. Of course, you can buy a new SID with the RCT3 damper instead of the XX damper. If you don't want to use the Xloc remote, you'll have to buy another damper such as the RCT3 damper, which uses a crown mounted adjuster. So basically, you need the remote attached and bled properly to use the fork. If you remove the remote, or if it loses fluid (such as in a crash when the hose gets ripped off), the piston is fully extended and the damper has maximum low speed compression damping and significant high speed compression damping (the damper has a springy blowoff system).
An internal spring pushes the piston out. When the piston is pushed in, the compression damper is "off", when the piston is pushed out, the compression damper is "on/damping". The Xloc is hydraulic: it simply pushes a piston inside the compression damper, like a hydraulic brake.
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